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The Dish: Peaches' Lemon Pepper Chicken plays its part well

Some days, everything fits together right.

Last week, on a cool and rainy but somehow totally pleasant Tuesday, I decided there wasn't any better match for the weather than a heaping plate of soul food.

I pulled up the hood of my jacket and trotted out, hunched, from my back door to my car, slumped in and started it. Muddy Waters was on, doing "40 Days and 40 Nights." Man, perfect.

Muddy accompanied me down Prince to Milledge, and the rain was making the traffic on Milledge even worse than usual, but it wasn't going to throw me. I had Lemon Pepper Chicken to eat.

Lately I've been frequenting Peaches Fine Foods (840 W. Broad St.) with increasing regularity.

This probably is owing to the fact that a couple of weeks ago, I went for the Lemon Pepper Chicken instead of the more ubiquitous fried version, was blown away and now I find myself repeatedly struck down by an intense craving.

And I'm not sure if it's just the flavor and texture of the thing I want, all roasty and tender from slow baking it in its juices, or if it's the sides that have been fantastic lately and which pair well with the chicken, like the collard greens and the creamed corn. Or then again, it's probably just that grand feeling I get when I've finished and I'm stuffed, but not weighed down; full-hearted, supremely comforted.

After the meal, I pepped myself up with a ridiculously good espresso from The National.

It gave me just what I nee



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